Royal Cufflinks and Historic Jewels Feature at Auction

A remarkable auction at Woolley & Wallis will showcase a selection of historic jewelry, including a pair of gold, ruby, sapphire, and diamond cufflinks once owned by Ferdinand I, Tsar of Bulgaria. Scheduled for January 28, 2024, the auction will also feature a natural pearl and emerald necklace valued between £40,000 and £60,000, alongside a brooch designed in memory of former United States President John F. Kennedy.

The cufflinks, dating back to circa 1910, exemplify the exquisite craftsmanship of early 20th-century fine jewelry. Each cufflink boasts platinum and yellow gold terminals, showcasing a partially hammered surface adorned with a circular-cut diamond, complemented by either a ruby or a sapphire. Stamped 585, the cufflinks measure 1 centimeter in length. The auction house highlights them as a rare survival, representing European royal history, merging historic significance with refined design.

According to Woolley & Wallis, the cufflinks are documented in a reference book published by Hirmer in 2016, which includes only a select number of historically important pieces from major royal collections. “Inclusion in this book confirms this pair is recognized by leading jewelry experts not merely as decorative objects, but as examples of lasting historical and cultural importance,” the auction house stated.

Ferdinand I played a pivotal role in shaping modern Bulgaria. As a member of the German ducal House of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha, he brought a cosmopolitan perspective to his leadership. Elected Prince of Bulgaria in 1887, he proclaimed the nation’s full independence from the Ottoman Empire in 1908 and declared himself Tsar, establishing a sovereign kingdom. His reign was marked by modernization efforts and territorial expansion until he abdicated in 1918 in favor of his son, Boris III.

Marielle Whiting, a jewelry specialist at Woolley & Wallis, described the cufflinks as “a fascinating survival from the personal wardrobe of Ferdinand I, Tsar of Bulgaria—a ruler whose life was as complex and cosmopolitan as the jewels he owned.” She emphasized that their creation around 1910 reflects the refined taste of a European monarch deeply connected to the continent’s royal courts and artistic circles.

The auction will also feature a natural pearl and emerald necklace with a graduated row of pearls alternately set with carved emerald beads and suspending 15 graduated pearl drops, all with gold finials. This piece is estimated to fetch between £40,000 and £60,000, with the emeralds weighing a total of 22.72 carats.

Another significant highlight is a brooch originally presented to Jacqueline Kennedy. Designed by pioneering Anglo-Italian jeweler Andrew Grima, this piece was created in memory of President Kennedy following his assassination in 1963. The original “JK” brooch features bold interlocking initials and has an estimated value of £1,000 to £2,000. It won the Duke of Edinburgh’s Prize for Elegant Design in 1966, solidifying its status as one of Grima’s most culturally resonant works.

Among the auction’s highlights is a rare 14th-century diamond-set gold stirrup ring, estimated at £6,000 to £8,000. During this period, diamonds were extremely rare in Europe and typically reserved for royal and ceremonial objects. The ring features an uncut diamond, retaining its natural octahedral crystal form, valued not for brilliance but for its legendary protective properties.

The auction will take place at Woolley & Wallis’s new showroom at Unit 1B, Castle Gate Business Park, Old Sarum, Salisbury, SP4 6QX, on January 28–29, 2024. This event promises to attract collectors and enthusiasts eager to acquire pieces of significant historical and cultural value.