Culinary Adventure with Nancy Reyes Lumen, the Adobo Queen

Meeting Nancy Reyes Lumen, known as the “Adobo Queen,” was a culinary experience that showcased the rich flavors of Filipino cuisine. During a reunion in Hawaii, a group of ten classmates from the Philippines gathered to learn from the celebrated food writer and television host. One of the hosts, Dolores Bediones, invited me to participate in a cooking session with Nancy, eager to discover the secrets behind her renowned adobo dishes.

The dinner menu was a feast of traditional flavors, featuring chicken and pork adobo, shrimp cooked in ginger and coconut milk, and a special sisig made from pork skin. The meal also included adobo fried rice and roasted pork belly topped with caramelized sugar. In addition, a uniquely assembled Filipino salad brought together blanched sweet potato leaves, diced mango, jicama, salted duck eggs, tomatoes, and onion. This dish invited diners to personal creativity, allowing them to choose ingredients and season them with fish sauce.

As we settled into the kitchen, my curiosity led me to ask Nancy about the literal meaning of adobo. She explained that the term originates from the Spanish verb adobar, meaning to season or marinate. Traditionally, the use of vinegar in adobo aimed to preserve the meat. The addition of soy sauce, brought by Chinese immigrants, has since become a hallmark of Filipino adobo.

Nancy employed a precise approach to cooking, using a ratio for her marinade that included three tablespoons each of fish sauce, soy sauce, and vinegar, complemented by one tablespoon of oyster sauce for around three pounds of chicken thighs and pork belly. This method stood out to me, as many cooks often rely on instinct rather than measurements. The result was a well-balanced adobo, with the oyster sauce adding a subtle sweetness that eliminated the need for sugar—a common alternative to temper the vinegar’s acidity.

The discussion also touched on preferences for adobo styles; Nancy favors a wet version, allowing the flavorful gravy to complement rice, while I prefer a drier style. Her insights extended to the varying tastes of fish sauce, soy sauce, and vinegar, emphasizing that every brand can yield different results. Nancy noted that diluting overly salty or sour dishes with water can be an effective remedy.

An unexpected highlight was the coconut shrimp dish, which challenged my preconceived notions about the use of coconut milk in Filipino cooking. Nancy highlighted that coconuts are indigenous to the Philippines, especially in the southern regions. To prepare the shrimp, a simple one-to-one ratio of vinegar and fish sauce is used for marination.

Nancy’s culinary expertise reinforced my appreciation for Filipino cuisine. In my experience working with numerous Filipino cooks in Hawaii, I have consistently found that they excel in seasoning, leading to delicious results. Until now, I regarded Augie Burbano, a cook at the Mauna Lani, as the gold standard for adobo.

Our conversation also revealed a personal connection; Nancy was intrigued by my background, particularly how my Japanese mother learned to cook Filipino dishes after marrying Mariano Castillo, a Filipino man. Growing up, I enjoyed my mother’s versions of pork and chicken adobo, pinakbet, and monggo beans, as well as calamondin leaves, known variably as marungay or moringa depending on the region.

The kitchen experience with Nancy was a reminder of the importance of curiosity and openness in culinary exploration. Each chef brings unique influences shaped by their upbringing, travels, and experiences. As emphasized in the cookbook “The Blue Tomato,” the possibilities in cooking are endless.

I left the kitchen inspired and grateful for the opportunity to learn from the Adobo Queen herself. Thank you, Nancy Reyes Lumen, for a delightful evening of culinary discovery.