Costume Designer Explores Blood and Grief in ‘Hamnet’

The film adaptation of Hamnet, directed by Chloe Zhao, delves into the profound themes of love and loss through its striking costume design. Central to this design is the work of costume designer Malgosia Turzanska, who drew inspiration from powerful imagery, including blood and grief, to reflect the emotional journey of the characters. The film stars Jessie Buckley as Agnes and Paul Mescal as William Shakespeare, chronicling their sorrow following the death of their 11-year-old son, Hamnet.

When Turzanska first conceptualized the costumes for Hamnet, her vision was sparked by a vivid image of “a giant beating heart muscle.” This metaphor becomes a visual reality as the color red dominates the wardrobe of Agnes. The film, based on Maggie O’Farrell’s acclaimed 2020 novel, follows Shakespeare and Agnes as they navigate their grief, ultimately leading to Shakespeare’s creation of his iconic play, Hamlet.

Symbolism in Costume Design

Turzanska recalled her initial discussions with Zhao, stating that they began their creative process without a formal script. They explored various themes, including “blood, menstrual blood, pumping blood, drying blood,” which ultimately informed the color palette for Agnes’s character. The film opens with a young Agnes dressed in vibrant red bark cloth, symbolizing her vitality. As she transitions into motherhood, her attire shifts to more muted tones, reflecting her evolving identity as she becomes increasingly focused on her children.

The narrative takes a dark turn with the tragic death of Hamnet, which marks a significant change in Agnes’s wardrobe. Following this loss, her clothing darkens, symbolizing her deepening grief. A poignant moment arises when Shakespeare prepares to leave for London, highlighting their emotional distance through contrasting attire. Agnes, clad in a brown smock and gray bodice, appears more subdued compared to Shakespeare’s layered, vibrant garments.

Turzanska’s intent was to portray Agnes as a character on the brink of rediscovering herself amid her sorrow. “The idea was that the character had started to get dressed,” she explained. “She still has something to live for,” signifying her resilience despite her overwhelming grief.

Emotional Layers and Historical Context

The costumes also serve as a narrative device to express the characters’ evolving emotional states. For instance, Turzanska noted that at one point, Agnes wears a prune-colored skirt, which she likens to a “dried scab,” representing her internal anguish. As the story progresses, Agnes experiences a moment of revival when she visits the Globe Theater to see Shakespeare’s play. In a powerful moment of reconnection, she dons the same dress from an earlier scene, signifying her journey back to herself, albeit with a more mature perspective.

In designing Shakespeare’s costumes, Turzanska sought to break away from the conventional images often associated with the playwright. “The images that we have in our heads were painted years after his death,” she remarked, allowing her creative freedom in depicting the Bard. Shakespeare’s wardrobe features Tudor details, with emotional layers conveyed through the choice of textiles. The quilted doublet he wears when first meeting Agnes evolves in complexity after Hamnet’s death, with larger slashes representing his heightened emotional turmoil.

For Shakespeare’s ghostly appearance, Turzanska drew inspiration from various artistic interpretations of Hamlet. She discovered a sculpture made of cracked clay, which led her to consider the origins of ghostly imagery. “It is not a bed sheet,” she clarified, explaining that the concept of ghosts wrapped in sheets originates from burial practices. Ultimately, Shakespeare’s ghost is enveloped in dried clay, symbolizing his raw and vulnerable state.

Through the lens of these costumes, Turzanska encapsulates the complexities of grief, identity, and resurrection in Hamnet. The film not only presents a poignant narrative but also invites viewers to engage with the emotional depth of its characters, underscored by the thoughtful design choices that bring their stories to life.